{"id":8368,"date":"2019-03-30T19:05:16","date_gmt":"2019-03-30T23:05:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/?p=8368"},"modified":"2019-04-17T20:04:29","modified_gmt":"2019-04-18T00:04:29","slug":"ugly-baby-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/?p=8368","title":{"rendered":"Ugly Baby"},"content":{"rendered":"

When I write about restaurants on Instagram, they’re usually brief takes accompanied by a photo or two. (You can see my feed right here on ethnojunkie.com, updated almost daily, by selecting the \u201cInstagram\u201d category from my home page \u2013 no signup required.) But because of Instagram\u2019s character count limitations, it’s often necessary to break up a review into several parts. This one originally appeared as four posts, one from my first visit in October 2017 (the first three dishes), the others from a more recent excursion published in March 2019.
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

If I recall correctly, it\u2019s a cross-cultural superstition and particularly so in Thailand: if you\u2019ve just given birth to a beautiful baby, you proclaim it ugly lest an evil spirit punish your hubris and abduct your newborn. Such is the story behind the name of this outstanding restaurant, Ugly Baby, at 407 Smith Street in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. The chef, half of the team that graced us with Red Hook\u2019s Kao Soy and Chiang Mai, is back with a vengeance, and authenticity seems to be the name of the game. <\/p>\n

Here are a few of the extraordinary dishes we enjoyed. (Click any photo to view in glorious high resolution.)<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Laab Ped Udon<\/p>\n

Spicy duck salad. Could this be the best laab ped I\u2019ve ever had?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kang Hoh<\/p>\n

Northern dry hung le (a curry paste) and red curry paste with pork shoulder, spare ribs and mung bean noodles. Not a dish you see everywhere: you definitely need to try this one!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kua Kling<\/p>\n

The menu describes this as \u201csouthern dry eye round curry \u2013 brutally spicy\u201d. It was. Not a dry eye in the house! A high spice level \u2013 even for me and I have a high tolerance \u2013 so I suggest that you get at least one order of sticky rice and do a bit of the beef and a bit of the rice in each bite for balance. That way, you\u2019ll actually get to taste the complex flavors of this dish (it\u2019s not just hot!) and you\u2019ll find it delicious.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kang Ped<\/p>\n

Sting Ray Curry. Topped with betel leaves, this spicy treatment of sting ray was top notch. That cluster of little beads on the right is a stem of green peppercorns; if you\u2019re into cooking, you can find them in Thai markets brined in jars. Highly recommended.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Khao Soi Nuer<\/p>\n

Northern egg noodle curry soup with beef shank. A popular street food in Northern Thailand, it\u2019s a complex dish of contrasting textures and complementary flavors authentically executed here.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Khoong Muk Kai Kem<\/p>\n

Khoong Muk Kai Kem features shrimp (khoong), squid (muk), and salted egg yolk (kai kem) \u2013 assuming I\u2019ve decoded the Thai correctly. I admit to being an avid fan of salted egg yolk in all its forms; here it serves to thicken the sauce and add texture as well as flavor to the seafood. An excellent dish.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Kang Hoy Bai Cha Plu<\/p>\n

Mussels, betel leaves, and cha-om in \u201cugly red curry\u201d. Cha-om are the gossamer leaves of the Acacia pennata tree which can be consumed either raw or cooked; the betel leaves are the larger pieces you see in the photo. This dish is a good example of why I like Ugly Baby so much; another winner.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Lin Moo Yang<\/p>\n

Grilled Pig\u2019s Tongue. Lin means tongue, moo means pork (easy to remember because of the barnyard irony), and yang means grilled. Pig\u2019s tongue is enjoyed by many cultures; my first exposure was as a kid \u2013 part of a soul food dinner \u2013 and I\u2019ve been a fan ever since. Don\u2019t be put off by the idea of tongue; it\u2019s a delicious meat and when it\u2019s grilled, especially Thai style (the cuisine has a way with a grill), it\u2019s unforgettable. Try this one.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Moo Pad Kapi<\/p>\n

Pork Belly and Shrimp Paste. You already know moo, pad is a stir fry (Pad Thai, right?), and kapi is shrimp paste. Cooling cucumber on the side, this dish with its red peppers, infusion of funky, salty shrimp paste, and crispy fried shallots perched on top was perfection with its sticky rice accompaniment.
\n 
\n 
\nUgly Baby is located at 407 Smith Street in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. One of my absolute favorite Thai restaurants.
\n 
\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When I write about restaurants on Instagram, they’re usually brief takes accompanied by a photo or two. (You can see my feed right here on ethnojunkie.com, updated almost daily, by selecting the \u201cInstagram\u201d category from my home page \u2013 no … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3336,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[59,115],"tags":[30],"class_list":["post-8368","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-instagram","category-restaurant-reviews-extended","tag-thai"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8368","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3336"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=8368"}],"version-history":[{"count":25,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8368\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8393,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/8368\/revisions\/8393"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=8368"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=8368"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ethnojunkie.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=8368"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}