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Biscotti
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These twice-cooked treats (aka cantuccini) are laden with toasted almonds and dried cherries that I simmered in Amaretto. Delicious dunked in coffee for breakfast, wine for dessert (as they do in Italy), or cocoa for snowstorms.
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Stay tuned: more cookies to come!
When I bake Christmas cookies, it’s the same cast of characters every year. Not that this old dog can’t learn new tricks, it’s just that after I’ve made my signature treats, I usually don’t have enough energy left to take pictures of them. (Although somehow I do manage to muster the energy to consume them!)
So here are some past photos of those goodies. Enjoy!
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Identity Crisis Cookies
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So named because I couldn’t decide whether to make chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin or toasted coconut pecan and since I had all of those on hand…well, you get the picture.
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More to come….
It’s the most wonderful time of the year! That time when folks dust off words like ’tis and ’twas as Bing Crosby inscrutably croons, “Christmas is a-comin’ and the egg is in the nog!” (Whaaa…?)
But it makes an appropriate musical background for reading the tell-all eggsposé revealing what I do with holiday nog.
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One of these things is not like the others, or so the song goes. In this case, the outlier is the first Panettone, the only orthographically correct version of the subject of this post. To tell the truth, the two imposters share the spotlight only by way of capitulation to less-than-forgiving search engines (and not as a sly reference to the 90s R&B/soul group) because it is my mission to ensure that everyone falls in love with this gift to the culinary arts as deeply, passionately, and yes, obsessively as I have.
You’re all familiar with panettone, right? That Italian (Milanese, specifically) sweet, fruity, fluffy cake that’s usually consumed for the holidays (Christmas, specifically) but can be enjoyed year-round by ardent aficionados (me, specifically).
If you’ve read my story, An Eggnog Excursus, you know that part of my obsession stems from the fact that this bewitching beverage evocative of joyous childhood memories is only available for an all-too-brief period each year. Unlike eggnog, some brands of panettone are available year-round, generally dozing in supermarkets and even bodegas, but they tend to be lackluster as compared with the treasures that miraculously appear during the holiday season. It’s like envisaging a standing rib roast for Christmas dinner and then being served pot roast instead. It’s not the end of the world, but it is a world away from what you had been eagerly anticipating for the better part of a year.
So in an effort to assist with your choice of panettone from the myriad available this time of year, please check out this deep dive into Italy’s sweet Christmas present to the culinary world!
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Dear Friends,
I can no longer keep this to myself. I am an addict, hooked on mithai. What’s that? You don’t know about mithai? Mithai are Indian sweets and since Diwali, the Hindu Festival of Lights, is upon us, I can think of no better time than now to tell you my tale. So gather round your diyas and check out my post “Indian Sweets 101: Meeting Mithai” right here on ethnojunkie.com!
दिवाली मुबारक
Happy Diwali!
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Eggnog! First sighting of the year!
It’s like waiting for this year’s vintage Beaujolais Nouveau to appear: Le 2024 Lait de Poule est arrivé! (They say that the French have a word for it, and I have to admit a certain fondness for their spin on the word “eggnog”, lait de poule: hen’s milk.)
If you’ve read me, you know that I have a few (ha!) guilty pleasures when it comes to holiday food, and for me, nothing heralds the advent of the season like the first appearance of eggnog on supermarket shelves. And snatching it away precipitately as they do every year when the yule log’s embers have barely begun to evanesce only makes the anticipation and craving for next year’s batch more intense.
But which one(s) to buy? The brand in this photo may not be my fave – it’s merely the first I’ve found this year: September 26 to be precise! It definitely benefits from a liberal dusting of freshly grated nutmeg. But fret not. I and my OCD are here to offer you the benefits of my research and experimentation regarding this happy holiday quandary. Please check out my essay, An Eggnog Excursus – and unlike the holiday libation itself, it’s available year-round under “Deep Dives” on my homepage!
Cheers!
Well, um, yes. Yes, you are chopped liver.
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In this photo, at least. It’s a classic Ashkenazi Jewish side and never a main, hence the cutting slur relegating the target to second class status. Ironically, the dish is absolutely delicious.
It’s a cinch to prepare, although it is time consuming if you want to get it just right. There are only four ingredients: sautéed chicken livers, caramelized onions, hard boiled eggs, and schmaltz (rendered chicken fat, often justifiably referred to as “liquid gold”) that are ground together (but a food processor is fine) and served on matzo, rye bread, or challah.
Here, I’ve accompanied mine with sliced cucumbers, pickled green tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, and garnished it with gribenes. What, you don’t know from gribenes? A shanda! Gribenes are crisp bits of chicken skin fried along with more onions until shatteringly crisp.
Oy! I almost forgot to mention the fifth ingredient – a Jewish grandmother would never forgive me.
It’s love, of course.
In a former life, I worked about two blocks from Manhattan’s Koreatown, 32nd St between Madison and 6th Avenues, and way back then I probably tried just about every restaurant in the neighborhood in the company of special friends. So it was a treat to return to one of my favorites, BCD Tofu House (BCD refers to Bukchang Dong, a district in Korea).
The eponymous BCD Tofu House is known for their Soon Tofu, soft silken tofu, and they make it masterfully. We got an Entrée Combo, a main dish served with a choice of over ten varieties of soon tofu. In addition to rice, soup, and banchan, a sine qua non of any Korean meal, we ordered the LA Galbi Combo – LA style fragrant, sizzling BBQ short ribs…
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…and outstanding Dumpling Soon Tofu soup.
Our feast also featured an enormous Seafood Pajeon (seafood pancake from the Shared Plates section of the menu) filled with squid, mussels, shrimp, green onion – decidedly one of the best I’ve ever enjoyed.
Curiously, the experience there turned out to be even better than any I can recall now and more evocative than my distant memories embraced.
Moral – and feel free to alter indefinite pronouns: If you miss something dearly, consider revisiting it: there was a reason it meant so much to you the first time you met.
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IYKYK…but IYDK, Wikipedia says that Yardie (or Yaadi/Yawdie) is a term often used within the Caribbean expatriate and Jamaican diaspora to refer to people of Jamaican origin. The word is derived from the Jamaican patois for “home” or “yard.”
And now YK.
But I’ve got something way better for you to know: Yawdie-Q is a must do!
You’re looking at the authentic Jamaican Fried Chicken Slider served on a potato roll with sweet herb slaw and pickled vegetables, accompanied by a side of Plantain Sticks plus some bespoke house aioli for dipping (comped).
Is it even possible to make a slider that’s actually memorable? It was certainly the best slider I’ve ever had (no lie) and I strongly recommend that you stop by and taste for yourself! And while you’re there, order a refreshing Jerk Lemonade. Jerk Lemonade? Yes. It isn’t spicy, but it is the perfect drink to go with everything on the menu, so don’t miss it!
Now, the plantain sticks are not on the menu – YET. But I’ll bet if enough people come in asking for it, if we’re very lucky, Damien (who is a marketing guru as well as a talented Caribbean chef) will make it happen.
Crunchy outside…
…soft and sweet inside.
Yawdie-Q is located at 2123 Caton Ave in Brooklyn, inside the Flatbush Central Caribbean Marketplace, only a three block walk from the Parkside Ave stop on the Q train.
Maybe I’ll see you there – because I’m going back. Soon!
www.yawdieq.com
@yawdieq on Instagram
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A couple of days ago, while hunting for some new international treats for my “Exploring Eastern European Food in Little Odessa” ethnojunket guests, I spotted this sign in one of my favorite markets: “запеканка – сыр + грибы.” My Russian is good enough to translate “cheese + mushrooms” and a couple of clicks on my iPhone returned “casserole” for the first word.
The sign was well lit, the food behind it less so; I couldn’t quite see what I was grabbing with the tongs. But I plopped it into a plastic container – hastily, since the customer behind me was already reaching toward the same tray. Peering through the hazy, ridged plastic, I could see the chopped mushrooms and cheese but I couldn’t make out what might be creating the interleaving layers. Thinly sliced potatoes? Noodles?
At home, I warmed it up enough to melt the cheese and the answer was obvious. A stack of Russian blini layered with melty cheese and mushrooms! What’s not to love?