Fok Noodles Express

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A couple of posts ago I did a shout-out to Pinklady Cheese Tart at 11 Mott St in Manhattan’s Chinatown. Literally across the street (and I mean “literally” literally) at 12 Mott, you’ll find Fok Noodles Express, the newest incarnation of the E Noodle group.

They take the word Express seriously; my order was ready practically before I had a chance to sit down at the counter. They offer a wide assortment of Cantonese handmade dumplings, dim sum and noodles and given the environment, the dish I tried was definitely beyond my expectations.

This is Dan Dan Noods (their spelling) with a nod to Sichuan cuisine: just the right amount of heat in the sauce with skillfully balanced toppings over perfectly cooked noodles. After I try a few (yeah, right!) more items, I might need to add this spot to my “Not Your Ordinary Chinatown Tour” – I’ll keep you posted!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

Now Boarding! Little Odessa Ethnojunket on May 17 at 1pm!

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Here’s another chance to take part in a scheduled ethnojunket to Brooklyn’s Little Odessa for some delicious Russian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, Uyghur, Turkish, Uzbek, and Ukrainian food!

An ethnojunket is a food-focused walking tour through one of New York City’s many ethnic enclaves; my mission is to introduce you to some delicious, accessible, international treats (hence, “ethno-”) that you’ve never tasted but soon will never be able to live without (hence, “-junkie”). My most popular tours are described on the Ethnojunkets page but there are always new ones in the works.

A scheduled ethnojunket is one which is about to happen soon. Generally, I try to keep the group to a maximum of six people or so; it’s a comfortable size: larger groups tend to get impersonal and less participatory. But occasionally, only one or two people have signed up for an ethnojunket – and when it comes to food tastings, the more participants, the greater the opportunity to taste more dishes! So when that happens, I announce it in the Now Boarding section of the Ethnojunkets page. Subscribers always get email notifications about these.

And this is one of those occasions! There are still some openings available for our Exploring Eastern European Food in Little Odessa ethnojunket on Saturday, May 17 at 1pm so here’s your chance to join in the fun! Click here to sign up!
 

Chinatown’s Worst-Kept Best-Kept Secret

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Shhh!!!

Its name is Fu Zhou Wei Zhong Wei Jia Xiang Feng Wei which essentially means “tasty Fuzhou hometown flavor.” Or WZW for short. Until about five years ago, this unique restaurant featured an extensive menu but COVID did what pandemics do and they reinvented themselves as a wholesale operation. Since then, they’ve re-reinvented themselves and currently offer a scaled-down selection of first-rate Fujianese soups, dumplings and buns.

There are two ways you can experience this stalwart Chinatown treasure for yourself:

Go to 88 East Broadway, walk down a few steps toward the row of plate glass doors, open the leftmost door (the only one that isn’t locked), enter and go left, then around, then downstairs, then straight. You’ll pass mostly vacant and abandoned offices, shop fronts, and the precious few businesses that remain. Keep going until you come to WZW.

Or…

Use the side entrance on Forsyth St and go directly downstairs.

But tell me, where’s the fun in that?

WZW wasn’t well known to casual tourists but so many foodie cognoscenti and tour guides shared their best-kept secret that before long a critical mass of Chinatown devotees discovered this treasure. And now you’re in on the secret too. If you weren’t already.

From our last visit: Meat Paste Soup

 
 
Fried Dumplings


 
 
Small Steamed Buns


 
 
Steamed Dumplings


 
 
Fuzhou Dumplings with Soup

 
 
Bamboo Shoot Cake. I know they look like the sesame balls you’ve seen so many times before, but these are filled with bamboo shoots and pork. One of a kind.

And yes, of course we always visit WZW on my “Not Your Ordinary Chinatown Tour.” Check it out here. These resolute folks deserve our loyalty and support!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

Pinklady Cheese Tart

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I’m old enough to remember “Pink Lady and Jeff,” the ill-fated 80s television show that co-starred comic Jeff Altman and the Japanese singing duo Mie Nemoto and Kei Masuda known as Pink Lady. That and the gin and grenadine cocktail are what come to mind when I hear the evocative phrase, “Pink Lady.” So when I passed Pinklady Cheese Tart on Mott St in Manhattan’s Chinatown, logic dictated that the reference was to neither.


Based on sweet Japanese cheese tarts, these handmade delights are overflowing with a creamy, cheesy filling nestled in a crispy shortbread crust and sometimes crowned with an eye-catching topping.

Available in a multitude of flavors including original, ube, Japanese matcha, lemon, chocolate, strawberry, black sesame and blueberry, they can be enjoyed warm and oozy or cold like cheesecake; shown here are ube and chocolate at mousse-like room temperature. I also tried the original because that’s where I always start but I can assure you I haven’t finished: we’ll be tasting them on my Not Your Ordinary Chinatown Tour of course.

Their motto is Fluffy, Rich, Creamy, Cute.

Nailed it.
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

And Now for Something Completely Different!

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One of the hallmarks of my ethnojunkets is that I always endeavor to introduce my guests to something they’ve never tried before that I can honestly promise will not taste “weird” to the hesitant. On a recent jaunt to Bay Ridge to ferret out what treats might be new this season, I came upon these two beverages that are admirable representatives of our Middle Eastern theme: Salaam Cola and Camelicious Camel Milk.

“Salaam” means “peace” in Arabic; Salaam Cola was born as a protest against injustices in the Muslim world, particularly Palestine, pledging 10% of their profits to support those affected by conflict. In addition to their website, Salaam Cola has a strong social media presence boasting pages on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok.

And if that isn’t enough to warm your heart and give you hope, their founder, Aykiz Shah, a visionary humanitarian, is a woman.

Salaam Cola rolled out its US operations in March 2024 and just like Coke, Pepsi, and RC, its flavor is unique; I can truly say that it has become one of my favorite colas and yes, of course, we’ll get some on my Flavors of Little Levant ethnojunket in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn.

Not to be left out, we’ll also sample camel milk on our journey. Not to worry: it’s fully pasteurized, a little richer than cow’s milk, not as pungent as goat’s milk, and again, guaranteed not to be “weird!”

Food tour season has started so I hope we have a chance to meet on one of my ethnojunkets. Check out my Ethnojunkets page for more information and to sign up!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

Alpha Bakery

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If your native language was Italian or Spanish and you aspired to start up a top-line, first-class bakery and food shop, you might consider naming it “Numero Uno” – but if your native language was Greek, you might opt for “Alpha.” And Alpha Bakery & Mediterranean Marketplace has succeeded in achieving that status.

Backstory: It’s the inception of food tour season and I always return for multiple visits to each neighborhood we cover to see what’s new and what’s departed. I was on the hunt for some seriously needed newcomers for my Flavors of Little Levant ethnojunket in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, and I spotted Alpha at 7717 5th Ave.

Predominantly Greek products lined the shelves, but it was the ample array of freshly prepared dishes and baked goods that caught my eye. The Tolis family opened Alpha Bakery last October, but they’re hardly newcomers to the kitchen: they had been professional pastry chefs in Greece 25 years ago before they emigrated to America.

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Shown here is their Fried Codfish and Garlic Mashed Potatoes (Mπακαλιάρος και Σκορδαλιά – or Bakaliaros and Skordalia if the alphabet is Greek to you). Crispy exterior, substantial interior paired with the classic accompaniment.


The highlight that day was their Bougatsa (Mπουγάτσα) – flaky phyllo dough filled sweet semolina custard and dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Never had semolina custard? Definitely give this version a try.


Inside view revealing the delectable filling – and despite any expectation, it’s not excessively sweet. Worth a trip.

Alpha is truly a welcome addition to the neighborhood and yes, of course we’ll stop by on my Little Levant ethnojunket. See you soon!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

In Just –

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– the proverbial blink of an eye, the weather changed from dark, bleak, frigid Winter to glorious, mud-luscious, puddle-wonderful Spring. And with it, the advent of food tour season!

I usually share photos of savory treats we enjoy on our ethnojunkets but pix of sweets less frequently. On an “Eastern European Food in Little Odessa” tour last year, one of my favorite guests was on a quest for a certain type of honey cake that she hoped we’d find at Tashkent Market. It was a wakeup call for me that I needed to delve into their selection of Russian and Eastern European cakes more thoroughly – hey, it’s tough work but somebody’s gotta do it 😉. So over subsequent visits, I decided to familiarize myself with just a few (ha!) of the dozens of varieties they offer. Some photos of my research:

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Spartak Cake – Layered with sour cream icing, topped with chocolate ganache.


Napoleon – Layers of thin, flaky puff pastry and pastry cream highlighted with sweet raspberries.


Éclair – Chocolate coated, topped with pistachios, loaded with a rich cream filling.


Vatrushka – A yeast dough disk filled with sweet cheese, often topped with cherries.


Chocolate Kartoshka – The Russian word for potato! Made from cake or cookie crumbs mixed with cocoa, sweetened condensed milk, and butter.


Sochniki – Crumbly shortbread cookies two ways: cheese and cherries.


Syrniki – From the Russian word for cheese, syr. Puck-shaped disks made from tvorog (similar to pot cheese). Inside perspective: raisin, sweetened condensed milk, and Nutella flavors.


Honey Cake – The inspiration for this post. Layered with honey infused cream.

But since a picture isn’t worth a thousand calories, please join me on one of my ethnojunkets! Visit my Ethnojunkets page to check out the comings and goings of my food tours!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

Hakka Kau Yuk

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More Bensonhurst as promised. In my last post we explored Italian 86th St but Chinese bakeries also cohabit the area. The word “bakery” falls short because some of these establishments offer a selection of lunchworthy steam table dishes as well.

I seldom order anything I’m familiar with; when faced with mutual unintelligibility, my modus operandi is to point at an unlabeled tray and hope for the best. In this case I could identify slices of pork belly and taro. I watched the woman behind the window as she carefully placed a slice of the first alternating with a slice of the second and so forth into a small aluminum container until it was filled. I brought it home, plated some of it as you see here, promptly texted the photo to my Number One Spy since I had no idea about what I had purchased other than it was delicious, and asked if she knew what it was.

Of course she did. It’s Hakka Kau Yuk, comfort food that hails from China’s Guangdong province and often shows up on the Chinese New Year dinner table. Preparation is laborious but the result is extraordinary; the steamed delicacy is elevated by a savory sauce that’s the perfect complement. So good!

Thanks again, Number One Spy. I’m a lucky guy for knowing you!
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

Prosciutto Bread Winner

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Props to Bensonhurst, one of Brooklyn’s many great neighborhoods for ethnic food! In this post, I’m referring specifically to the mile or so stretch of 86th St that hosts a parade of Chinese, Italian, and Georgian/Eastern European markets and restaurants. My customary plan of action is to take the D train to 25th Ave in Brooklyn and explore from there, walking northwest along 86th St for a little over a mile. It’s good exercise and you’ll often find unique renditions of the represented cuisines.


Case in point is this prosciutto bread: distinctive and in a class by itself. Most prosciutto breads I’ve sampled have been on the dry side with a low ham to bread ratio; this version is unquestionably the best I’ve ever tasted – a phrase I seldom use. It’s pillowy soft, satisfyingly chewy, and richly flavorful. All two pounds of it! How it succeeds in being airy and dense simultaneously is a conundrum I’ll leave for others to solve.

Find it at Vucciria Food & Gourmet, 2275 86th St (I don’t know if it was named for the market in Sicily). IMHO it’s worth the trip. (Excellent 7-layer rainbow cookies there as well! 😉)

More Bensonhurst to come, so stay tuned.
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤
 
 

TADA

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One of my (ostensibly innumerable) guilty pleasures is KFC – Korean Fried Chicken, that is, and not something else bearing the same initialism. Hey, IYKYK. I’ve visited K-Town (roughly centered on 32nd St between Madison Ave and Broadway) countless times, primarily because I crave the cuisine but also because I worked near there a lifetime ago so I’m certainly familiar with the fare.

But on a recent afternoon, I was in Manhattan’s Chinatown getting my ducks in a row in anticipation of the opening of ethnojunket season. It was lunchtime (always a calorific activity there) and I spotted TADA – “Korean Fried Chicken and More” on Bayard Street so I felt compelled to check it out.

(Click on any image to view it in high resolution.)

They offer bulgogi, bibimbap, fried spare ribs, japchae, tteokboki and the like but it was the fried chicken that was clucking loudest to me so I chose the Original Ginger Crispy Boneless Chicken that you see here; it came with parmesan fries, a salad, and a unique presentation.


Dark meat inner workings close-up.


White meat inner workings close-up.

Just curious: have any of you tried TADA? Any fanfares?
 
 
Stay safe, be well, and eat whatever it takes! ❤